Wednesday 3 August 2011

Chain Maintenance

This is one of the topics where there is almost too much misinformation and people who just state things without giving, or even having any proof to back up their statements.
Back when "I were a lad", I just used 3 in 1 household oil and assumed that chains always got filthy and made your trousers dirty. I cant remember ever cleaning a chain, replacing a chain or checking for wear.
Chain Wear Indicator
This all changed when I got the Brompton, as the large chainring and close proximity to the ground mean that the chain gets dirty and wears quickly. I'm finding that I need to replace the chain every 1500-2000 miles. I use a wear indicator but its easy to do with a ruler. Each link is exactly half an inch, so measuring a 12 inch piece of chain and it should be exactly 24 links. If its more than 1/16 inch out, then you need to replace the chain. Failure to replace a worn chain will lead to sprocket and chainring wear, chain skipping and even chain failure. The immortal Sheldon Brown has a lot more information, and unlike many people he based his information from a great deal of experience. See http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html  for more information.
To reduce the wear to a minimum you have to do two things:

  • Keep the chain clean
  • Lubricate the chain
We will look at each of these in more detail.

Chain Cleaning


Chain Cleaning Machine
To clean your chain, you have to decide whether to keep the chain on the bike or remove it from the bike and clean it away from the bike. If you decide to clean it on the bike, you can use a chain cleaning machine or just go with an old toothbrush. Squirt on some degreaser, then set to work cleaning the chain. If you use a machine and want to do a really thorough job, change the degreaser several times as you will get to the point where you are actually adding dirt back into the chain because you have suspended dirt in your solution. Its relatively easy to clean the outside of the chain, but very hard to clean inside the chain rollers which is where all the damage is done by the dirt.
If you use a chain breaking tool to remove the chain, and clean it with a toothbrush and degreaser. You will need to spend some time flexing the chain back and forth but you aren't going to get the chain as clean as using a machine. Some people use all sorts of strange techniques, boiling the chain, ultrasonic cleaners, etc. that must take hours!

Lubricate The Chain


You then need to re lube the chain. There are many different kinds of lube, and to be honest, I haven't found a satisfactory solution. I used to use "wet lube" for my Brompton, which works well when the weather is wet. The problem with this kind of lube is that it collects dust and dirt particles (even the ground up metal from your chain wearing), and this then collects in a horrible black mess around the chain.
Another lube is Dry Lube. This uses Teflon or similar which is in a solvent. The solvent evaporates and leaves a teflon coating, sometimes with a wax layer.
Ive been trying this recently, and I am finding that the chain soon starts squeaking after a good clean/re-lube.

I would love to hear from anyone who has a better method of chain maintenance or can recommend a good chain lubricant.

4 comments:

  1. I've tried using an ultrasonic cleaner with a citrus degreaser solution. It does work and takes however long you set the timer for, say thirty minutes. Not a lot of time and you can do something else while cleaner is working away.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Ive heard of others doing similar Finkerbell. A friend of mine does this, then boils his chains in water (honestly), dries them and then soaks them in hot oil.
    Im in two minds, and think I favour the quick way - wipe with a cloth and citrus, lube, wipe again.
    Check for wear regularly!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello its me again, the Yorkshireman Trapped Down South, or YTDS for short. How come we've had chains on bikes for 100+ years, and still don't know how to maintain them ? For years I have used genuine Homebase 10-40 Motor Oil, wiped down with rags. Recently my chainwheel has started putting black paint substitute all over my R leg and any clothing it can find.
    Have tried WD40 followed after drying by a little oil on the pins, not chain. Still black paint effect. Am now trying degreaser, MucOff spray on the whole chain, and after drying, a waxy dry lube on the rollers. The chain now looks too dry to last more than a few miles ! Will see what happens soon.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi David,
    I know quite a few cyclists who would be doing that hands on hips whistling through their teeth thing at the mention of motor oil and WD40!
    Motor oil is very thick and will collect dust from the road which makes the black paint.
    WD40, or so I have heard many times, washes some of the black paint inside the rollers of the chain, where is will so a lot of damage as it acts as a grinding compound. As a long term lubricant it isnt much good but as a water displacer, it is very good. A quick spray on your chain after being caught out in heavy rain can prevent a layer of rust forming.
    Yesterday, I bought some citrus degreaser and Im going to do a full clean today. Ive been wiping my chain quite often (every couple of days) and it has had a big effect on the amount of black paint.

    ReplyDelete